London in the Summer (with Teenagers)

My husband is from London, which means we're there more than most, usually once or twice a year depending on the season and who we owe a visit. This particular trip was the final stop on a twelve-day run through Ireland and Scotland. We were already that close, the family was expecting us, and honestly it's never a hard sell.

Four days. Shorter than usual, so we kept it intentional.

Where We Stayed

The Langham. Central, well located, and the kind of hotel where the service is genuinely excellent rather than performatively so. There's also a gym and indoor pool that are surprisingly hard to find inside the hotel but worth the search once you do.

The restaurant at the back is The Wigmore. Skip it if you have young kids, but their gin cocktails are worth a detour if you don't.

A word on London hotel rooms generally: they're small. This is not a complaint, just a fact. We do two rooms when it's the whole family there's no other way. American brands sometimes offer slightly more square footage but don't count on it. Manage expectations before you arrive.

And if you're considering an Airbnb or rental — confirm air conditioning before you book. We skipped that step one summer that happened to coincide with record heat. It was not good for sleep or anyone's mood and I will not be making that mistake again.

Getting Around and What to Expect

London in summer is warm-ish and unpredictable. This trip was a mix of warm days and rain, which is pretty standard. Pack a layer regardless of the forecast. You will use it.

If the weather cooperates, you will walk. A lot. I can easily log ten-plus miles on a good London day without trying. Comfortable shoes are non-negotiable. This is not the city for anything that needs breaking in.

I find the tube extremely easy to navigate and often faster than sitting in London traffic but weigh your options. We usually use the tube, uber and black cabs.

Where We Spent Our Time

Most of this trip was central London, which is where you want to be for four days. On longer trips we spend time in Richmond — Steve grew up there — but more on that below.

Mayfair is where I gravitate. I always do a walk up New Bond Street for window shopping, hit Selfridges, Harrods, and Harvey Nichols in some order, and rarely leave empty handed. It's a reliable loop and never gets old. I usually do this solo but I’ve been lucky to share my shopping route with girlfriends and my sister over the years and I love those memories.

For the boys, Dover Street Market in St. James is a consistent stop. It’s designer, streetwear, and vintage all under one roof. There's also a small cafe on the top floor with the best soft chocolate chip cookies, which honestly might be the main draw for Steve. If you're hunting sneakers, the Adidas Originals store in Soho occasionally turns up rare and harder to find styles. Worth a look if that's your thing.

If you have girls and need an Instagram moment, walk down Chiltern Street in Marylebone. Pop into Monocle coffee shop and wander there are plenty of spots in that stretch that photograph well and are worth the detour.

If you have time for an afternoon cocktail, the Red Room at the Connaught is a really cool space. Not for kids but a great way to end a shopping afternoon. Or pre-game for a trip to the nearby Goyard boutique.

A Day Out: Tower Bridge and the South Bank

We met friends for a day around Tower Bridge. I think this was the trip we walked across the Millennium Bridge, and along the Thames up the Queen's Walk. It's a genuinely pretty stretch and the area always has a lot going on but it doesn’t feel as packed with tourists as the other side of the river. In summer there are pop-up bars and events along the riverbank. Worth building a loose afternoon around even if you don't plan anything specific.

We ended up at The Dickens Inn nearby, which is exactly what it sounds like, an old pub in a good location that doesn't need to try very hard. Good enough for a couple drinks with friends.

Where to Eat

This is the part worth paying attention to.

Breakfast: It's Bagels in Soho is a great grab-and-go option — almost authentic New York style and easy if you're not feeling a sit-down. But don't go fancy for a full English breakfast. Find a random cafe, order it there, and don't overthink it. The more unassuming the better. And please give the baked beans a try. They’re so good. They’re tomato based, because everyone asks.

Lunch: My move at Harrods is to be the first person seated at the Harrods Grill. Order the Harrods Blanc de Blancs, split a burger and truffle fries for the table. It's the right amount of indulgent without derailing the rest of the day. Consider it shopping fuel.

Pubs: For a slightly elevated pub meal without the fuss, look for a Cubitt House property. They're all over London, I've eaten at The Barley Mow, The Builders Arms, The Grazing Goat, and the Thomas Cubitt and none have disappointed. Consistent, well done, reliable. I would recommend any of the Thomas Cubitt brand pubs for a dinner if you’re looking for pub style food. For daytime lunch of more casual meal, look for a Young’s or Greene King pub. They’re both popular chains and have pubs all over.

The one meal I will always recommend: The Harwood Arms in Fulham. It's the only pub in London to ever earn a Michelin star and the Sunday roast is a do not miss. Go hungry. This is not a light lunch situation.

A birthday worth mentioning: We celebrated my father-in-law's 80th at The Ivy. It's not fancy or particularly elevated, there are locations all over London, but it's solid, safe, and a reliable choice when you need somewhere that won't disappoint a crowd.

A Day Trip: Richmond

If you have an extra day or want an easy escape from central London, take the District line to the end and get off at Richmond. Ted Lasso fans will recognize it immediately. You can visit The Prince's Head, which was featured in the show but it had a different name. Not sure if they actually have darts but they have a great sticky toffee pudding.

We usually end up at The Old Ship instead. It dates back to the early 1700s and you can tell in certain corners. It has a lot of character, serves dinner upstairs if you stay too long, and feels nothing like a tourist stop. It's where locals actually go, which is the whole point.

The Honest Summary

Four days in London goes fast. Don't try to do everything. Pick your neighborhoods, build your meals around the ones worth it, and leave room to just walk. That's usually when London is at its best anyway.

Previous
Previous

My “carry-on Only” attempt for a family vacation